Wednesday, October 21, 2009

The Road To Aticama, Part 12, Alone With My Demons

Good Evening Friends,

Today, 10/21/2009, has been a challenging day! My new wench lasted less than an hour. Uggh! We are on a Aticama Liftoff Schedule and each day means a lot. Broken tools, well, are to be expected, and it seems like they never ever break when it is convenient. Thinking back to that afternoon in Los Cocos at the Delphin relaxes me of the bumps of today.

So, there I was. Impulsively I had rented this tiny room above the restaurant/kitchen for a week. I was feeling odd and a bit more colorful but it would take 4 months and and 3,000 more miles of Mexican pavement to figure it all out. I just knew that I was in the right place at the right time but all of the cast was not yet present. What I did know was that it was really great living above the kitchen!! Most of the time the smell rising was, well, entrancing. Smoke from coconut husks mixing with cooking onions and peppers wafting through the afternoon light filled windows. Dancing smoke in layers throughout the room. Below were sounds of drinking nearly all day long. Bravado occasionally. Mostly laughing and poking fun among friends.

For 7 nights I slept there alone. The crew came over every couple of days to check on me but they were occupied with their own exploring of the surrounding pueblos to the south. I tried to write but could not. I left my guitar at the camp and didn't bother to get it. I just watched and listened and smelled and felt the area into me, like a dry rag hitting a pail of hot water. Birds and children were everywhere, all the time. No disposable diapers back then for the birds to eat. No one eating birds. Pregnant women came and went daily to the kitchen dragging children dressed in used and very clean clothing. Everyone's clothing smelled of bleach. Terrific hand soap made locally with giant shreds of pumice and lye and fat cleaned everything. Conversations were local and about family - yours and theirs. The grapevine was strong and influential. The peoples antenna's were sharp and instantly recognized any trace of B.S., so, if you had a story it had better be true or amazing to believe!


1 comment:

  1. Did you mean your new "winch" or your new "wrench"? A "wench" is typically a woman and I don't think Weng fits into that category. ;)