Thursday, September 17, 2009

The Road To Aticama, 'Pacifico Y Nada Mas' And The Secret Beach

Hello Again Readers,

This morning it is foggy. Real Foggy here in Portland, Oregon. So foggy that everything is covered in serious wetness. That includes the project I am currently working on - a gorgeous Brazilian Rosewood deck located in the hills overlooking the city proper. Western Oregon is a rain forest that just happens to have people living in towns located within it. While I am waiting on things to dry out a bit so I can get back to work I though I would tell a bit more on my Finding Aticama adventure.


There is a beer made in Mexico called Pacifico. Whilst looking for a photo this morning to attach to this post I found this very cool travel/adventure/cartoon map/site put up by the Pacifico people. If you click on todays title (The Road To Aticama.....) above it will take you to this site.... so very cool. Even more to the point is shows a VW Microbus, JUST LIKE MY VW, JEZEBEL, TRAVELING THE MAP!! (Well, mine was red, not blue). Anyway, go to location #9 (yea, I know, weird) and you will find the village of Plantantios (little bananas). You can see this area from our ocean cliffside place in Aticama. This site has a lot of surprises so be sure to carefully look and click - it will actually send you to a moving photo with ocean sounds of the areas!! (move you cursor from side to side and the photo travels along with the mouse... so cool).
My Adventure from La Paz starts by clicking site (bottle cap) #35 and then on to site #53 (Mazatlan).... this location is FULL of cool things to check out!! Spend some time on this site - it is fun and it even has a contest to win a trip to Hawaii. Find the Map Legend Tab and click it for a menu of interesting things. There is also a gallery of VW Microbusses - one looks just Jezebel (minus the iguana, but still very, very wierd for me...) named Hania. But the best part of the site is - a live feed to a rooster that will wake you up with crowing!! Here is a link to it -

you will laugh.

Back to the Adventure.

You may recall that we were traveling on the La Paz to Mazatlan Ferry, headed east across the Sea Of Cortez. (see adjacent map). I dont think, however, that I have written about the crew on this adventure yet. During much of the '80s, long before I met Weng, I lived with a fantastic woman named Michelle. We traveled a lot, especially after I closed The Pyramid Club in Portland. We were joined on this particular trip with a friend named Denise. I had outfitted the VW Microbus, Jezebel, with a propane fridge and small kitchen. Not quite a hippy bus, but close. Keep in mind that, even tho it was not so long ago, the roads in Mexico generally were really, really bad and that most people got around on the Federal Trains if you had to go someplace far from home.

The fridge was full of cold Pacifico Beer when we arrived. We looked and smelled like traveling hippies. Maybe we were. The life was good and sweet and slow and innocent of the fast craziness of todays internet world. Mazatlan invited us with smells of cooking onions and tortillas and traffic and a little cantina named (how ironic, as it will turn out) 'El Pirata' (the pirate). It was early morning when we entered to get some breakfast. It was nearly dark when we stumbled out into the music of the streets. We had met toooo many amigos and drank cases (really) of beer. Cried our eyes out with really hot chilies. Beans and onions. No one there really knew about Matanchen Bay or how to get there. No worries. Sleep hassle free on the beach and watch tourists watch us. The next morning we set off in Jezebel, due south over some really bad, bad roads. Very few cars on the roads back then and all were funky with missing parts and lights. Villages full of curious people with shiny chrome teeth. Not too many gringos went that way. We were following the Gringo Trail over a million speed bumps. Gas stations were rare and we filled up empty Pacifico bottles with fuel because we were told that it was really hard to get gas the further south we went. And it was. All the time 'flying blind' with no map and no directions to our destination. Back then there were virtually no road signs to help, even if we did know where we were going.

Then it rained and the wipers blew out. Not much of a defroster in those old VW's. We pulled into a little town somewhere south of Mazatlan and stayed in a little parking lot in a place called, you guessed it - The Oregon Hotel.

to be continued......


1 comment:

  1. Amazing story. Can't wait to hear the next chapter.
    I did like the Pacifico link, too. Passed it on to a couple other Pacifico fans.
    I can relate to your travels in Mexico. I did some crazy trips in the '70s for scuba diving and in the '80s for windsurfing. Lots of memories - mostly good. Maybe some are a little foggy from the cerveza. In fact, on one trip Tecate became my dive buddy's anesthesia until we could get home to fix his toothache. After that, he had whopping hangover that needed fixing.